Fatty
Tuna Eye Socket: Culinary Adventures in Japan
By Jason Phillips
“Jason, can you eat namako?”
Resisting the reflex to explain
for the hundredth time that the verb “can” indicates
potential or ability, and that the proper English
expression would be, “do you eat…” I remind myself
that I’m off the clock, take the question as it was
meant and simply respond, “I don’t know. What is it?”
“It’s…uh…Japanese…uh…seafood.”
A typically illuminating response.
I shrug my shoulders, say, “Ok, sure,” to the proposed
mystery food in accordance with my “try anything once”
policy and it gets ordered along with the more routine
assortment of things raw, grilled, or fried. It’s
another Wednesday night in Kawasaki, Japan, and I’m
out at what has become our usual spot, the Izakaya
Shoya, with a group of students and teachers
from the local branch of the McLanguage School where
I work. Izakaya are often described as Japanese
tapas bars, and range from loud, smoky places
with glossy picture menus and crowds attracted by
cheap booze, to beautifully decorated establishments
that serve dishes of the highest quality with truly
artistic flair. Shoya is of the former variety,
and features the Holy Grail of beer specials: a pitcher
for a thousand yen, less than ten US bucks; and we’re
talking real beer here, people, not hoppo-shu,
that peculiar Japanese alcoholic near-beer.
Glasses of beer are imbibed and
conversations around our table are carried on in various
combinations of English and Japanese, from hopelessly
mangled to fluent depending on who’s speaking which
to whom. Soon, dishes start arriving and the evening’s
experiment makes its appearance. Namako,
turns out to be fairly innocuous looking-- small,
brown and black, crescent-shaped, vaguely mushroom-like
pieces of meat, doused in a thin brown sauce and topped
with flying fish roe.
“Here, Jason, chance namako.”
Again, the resisted impulse to correct
a choice bit of Japanese-English. Using my oft lauded
chopstick technique (expect to be complimented by
Japanese if you can manage any better than barbaric
two-fisted stabbing), I pick-up a piece from the proffered
bowl, making sure to get ample sauce coverage and
a few roe, and then, as a hush falls over the table
and with all eyes upon me, I chance it. Hmmm… salty,
chewy, I savor the delicate popping of the flying
fish roe, but there’s also an algal flavor that makes
me think I’ve discovered what it must be like to lick
the inside of a dirty fish tank. Overall, It’s not
disgusting, but it’s not an experience that I’m in
any hurry to repeat either. I tell my rapt audience
that it’s ma-ma (so-so) and, amid much laughter,
the spotlight moves to the other foreigner at the
table, Josh-sensei, for his turn. He tries
it, has a similar reaction albeit with a pronounced
nose wrinkle and decides to get to the bottom of things:
“So, what’d we just eat?”
Nobody at the table seems to know
the English word for the recently masticated sea critter,
but after a minute of consultation somebody pulls
out a small notepad and draws what looks like a cute
little slug, complete with a smile and antennae festooned
with googly eyes.
“A slug?”
“Srugah?” Hideo almost
gets it on the first try, miming a baseball swing
and wondering if he has found a funny homonym.
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